The coast from Cow Gap to Beachy Head lighthouse exposes Gault, Upper Greensand and Chalk, with fossils from several parts of the Cretaceous succession. Slipped and changing exposures make provenance important. This demanding tidal shore is distinct from the Holywell–Cow Gap and Birling Gap guides.
FIND FREQUENCY: ♦♦♦♦ – Loose blocks and exposed beds can contain diverse fossils; beach conditions vary.
CHILDREN: ♦♦ – Long, difficult access and large slippery rocks make this unsuitable for children.
ACCESS: ♦♦ – Steep approaches and a rough tidal shore require careful planning and open signed access.
TYPE: Loose fossils and chalk blocks away from cliffs; different formations can contribute fallen material.
DIRECTIONS
♦ Approach along Beachy Head Road to the main public car park near the visitor centre. Check paid-parking signs and current terms.
♦ Cow Gap is the historical descent used by this guide. Continue only by an open, signed public route; obey barriers and do not assume the steps are currently safe.
♦ Choose a turnaround from tide, weather, route conditions and available exits. Walking to the lighthouse first is not a method of avoiding tidal cut-off.
♦ The Holywell approach is a separate rough tidal traverse, not an automatically easier alternative.
♦ Ref: TV 58986 95819 – 50.740222, 0.251864
FOSSIL HUNTING
This guide concerns the demanding shore between Cow Gap and Beachy Head, with the lighthouse as a landmark, rather than a collecting traverse through to Birling Gap. The useful search material is naturally detached chalk on the foreshore and flint among the shingle. Rockfalls supply fossils from several levels of the cliff, but fresh falls and the ground beneath unstable faces are not collecting targets. Search only material that can be reached while keeping clear of the cliff and retaining a safe tidal return.
There are two distinct things to look for: fossils exposed in chalk blocks and fossils preserved within flint. On loose chalk, inspect weathered surfaces for shell edges, ribbed fragments, coiled sections and rounded echinoid outlines. Ammonites, belemnites, bivalves, brachiopods, echinoids, corals and worm tubes are recorded here. This diversity does not mean every group is equally frequent on every visit. Many pieces are incomplete, and the better first finds may be recognisable shell fragments rather than complete ammonites.
Lower parts of the succession contain grey, marly chalk, and some ammonite remains have a very different preservation from ordinary pale chalk fossils. The Beachy Head section described in the Geological Conservation Review contains phosphatised ammonite moulds in the Glauconitic Marl and a higher concentration of reworked ammonites. Such mineralised remains can look like worn pebbles or partial coils. Reworking means that an ammonite can be older than the sediment enclosing it, so a dark fossil fragment should not be dated solely from the block in which it is found.
The published Beachy Head log records Schloenbachia varians and the bivalve historically called Inoceramus crippsi, treated as Gnesioceramus crippsi in a recent Cenomanian study, in the lower succession. In Schloenbachia varians, look for the keel along the outside of the whorl, branching ribs and raised knobs or tubercles on the flanks and shoulders. Their strength varies greatly: slender, weakly ornamented forms and robust, strongly ribbed forms belong to the same variable species. The local Plenus Marls record includes the belemnite Praeactinocamax plenus; the Gun Gardens section also has Inoceramus pictus. Belemnite guards are dense, generally tapering internal structures; a broken end can show calcite fibres radiating from the centre. Inoceramid shell fragments instead show curved growth ridges and a layered or prismatic shell edge. Their presence is tied to particular beds, whereas loose specimens may have travelled or fallen from elsewhere in the exposure.
Flint-pebble searching offers a different approach. The heart-shaped echinoid Micraster may be recognisable as a mould or cast incorporated in a flint nodule. Look for a coherent heart-shaped outline and remnants of the five-part pore pattern; a vaguely heart-shaped flint is not enough. Sea wear can remove diagnostic details, and a genus-level identification is often more defensible than a species name. Do not smash flints simply to look inside: inspect their naturally exposed surfaces instead.
A useful collection includes information as well as fossils. Photograph each promising piece in its matrix and record whether it came from loose chalk, flint shingle or another clearly observed setting. Leave adequate supporting rock around delicate shell material, and keep matching fragments together. The shore is within the Seaford to Beachy Head SSSI; avoid damaging in-situ exposures and follow current landowner guidance. Large, unusual or associated remains deserve photographs and specialist advice before removal or preparation. Do not extend the search towards Birling Gap merely because a bed continues westwards: the long shore route, cliff falls and tidal cut-offs govern what can safely be examined.
A chronological record of geological research, fossil evidence and conservation milestones associated with Beachy Head.
1963 – The Plenus Marls resolved bed by bed
R. P. S. Jefferies established the eight-bed scheme for the Plenus Marls and documented the unusually expanded Eastbourne coastal succession, a basis for later work at Gun Gardens.
1969 – A condensed Lower Chalk succession measured
William J. Kennedy’s ammonite-based study documented the Beachy Head succession, including erosion and reworked phosphatic fossils that distinguish it from more complete inland sections.
1986 – Gun Gardens chalk markers defined
Rory Mortimore’s Sussex study formalised the bed and marl framework used through the expanded White Chalk at Beachy Head, including the Gun Gardens markers.
1993 – Carbon isotopes linked to fossil zones
Andrew Gale and colleagues, alongside work by Bernard Pomerol and Rory Mortimore, correlated the expanded Cenomanian–Turonian boundary interval using fossils, lithology and carbon-isotope changes. This connected the local section with boundary records abroad.
1996 – The boundary succession refined
Further ammonite and inoceramid work refined correlations through the terminal Cenomanian and lowest Turonian chalk, strengthening the value of the expanded Beachy Head–Holywell sections.
11 January 1999 – A major cliff collapse reshapes the shore
A large failure affected the full cliff height over a stretch about 200 m long. Its debris reached towards the lighthouse and left a substantial boulder apron, changing both coastal erosion and what geological material lay on the shore.
1999 – European boundary reference proposed
Christopher Paul and colleagues integrated Gun Gardens and Holywell Steps into a composite reference record of the Cenomanian–Turonian boundary. Gun Gardens supplied the expanded Grey Chalk, Plenus Marls and lower post-Plenus interval.
15 November 1999 – Current geological SSSI notification
The Seaford to Beachy Head notification recognised the importance of the coastal cliff–platform system and the neighbouring Cow Gap deposits, supporting conservation of both Cretaceous bedrock and younger landforms.
April 2001 – Devil’s Chimney lost in a cliff fall
Collapse of a large block removed the Devil’s Chimney landmark near the lighthouse. The resulting exposure and fallen material illustrate how rapidly individual cliff features and accessible beds can change.
2026 – Microfossils refine the environmental record
A study led by Giulia Amaglio used benthic foraminifera from the Eastbourne boundary record to distinguish sea-level and sea-floor changes through Oceanic Anoxic Event 2, including changing bottom-water ventilation during the Plenus Cold Event.
GEOLOGY
The Cow Gap-to-lighthouse section crosses Albian Gault and Upper Greensand into Cenomanian and Turonian Chalk. Landslips interrupt and repeat lower beds; Head Ledge is Upper Greensand, not a Plenus Marl platform.
At the lower end of the succession, weak dark Gault clay underlies glauconitic sand and calcareous sandstone with hard bands and cemented masses. Burrowed contacts separate these deposits from one another and from the basal Chalk. The lowest Chalk contains glauconite, phosphatic fossil moulds and concretions: it is a condensed fossiliferous interval rather than simply another thick white bed. Higher shelly chalk records inoceramid bivalves and ammonites, while sponge-bearing layers, marl seams and feeding traces provide markers through the Grey Chalk.
The Plenus Marls form a conspicuous recess at Gun Gardens, where alternating marly and paler chalk beds are unusually expanded. Nodular chalk succeeds them in the Melbourn Rock interval, followed by further marl-bearing and shell-detrital Holywell chalk. Higher New Pit Chalk is smoother to blocky and has less persistent flint than the nodular, locally iron-stained Lewes Chalk above. This change in texture is useful for understanding the cliff, but a loose fossil block may have fallen from well above the foreshore. Younger coombe rock, chalk mud, fossil soils and hillwash around Cow Gap record subsequent slope development and landslipping rather than extra members of the Chalk.
West Melbury Marly Chalk and Zig Zag Chalk belong to the Grey Chalk Subgroup. The base of White Chalk lies at the Plenus Marls within Holywell Nodular Chalk, below the Cenomanian–Turonian boundary. The expanded Gun Gardens succession preserves detailed marl and fossil markers.
New Pit Chalk overlies Holywell Nodular Chalk, with Lewes and Seaford Chalk represented higher near the lighthouse. The younger Light Point and farther-west sections fall outside this guide.
Detailed geology and stratigraphy of Beachy Head.
This section crosses an unusually long Cretaceous succession, from Albian Gault and Upper Greensand near Cow Gap into Cenomanian and Turonian Chalk towards the lighthouse. The lower cliffs and foreshore expose different levels from the upper cliff, and landslips locally repeat or conceal beds. The succession below is an east-side composite, not a single vertical face.
SELBORNE GROUP
Albian rocks beneath the Chalk are exposed locally on the shore and in displaced blocks around Cow Gap. Their outcrop is interrupted and repeated by landslipping.
Gault Formation
Dark clay and mudstone occur intermittently at the base of the slipped succession. Failure within these weaker beds has allowed the overlying Upper Greensand and Chalk to rotate seawards. No complete local formation thickness is exposed.
Gault–Upper Greensand contact. The contact is strongly burrowed. It belongs to the Albian succession and should not be confused with the younger, separately burrowed boundary at the base of the Chalk.
Upper Greensand Formation
Glauconitic sandstone forms the offshore reefs and shore-platform ledges, including Head Ledge at Cow Gap. These are displaced outcrops associated with the toes of landslips, not evidence of a simple uninterrupted vertical section along the beach.
Basal green sand and overlying calcareous sandstones. Dark green, glauconitic sand passes upwards into paler, slightly micaceous calcareous sandstone. Local hard calcareous bands and doggers interrupt the sandstone; the upper part is bedded and extensively bioturbated. Fossils are sparse, although ammonites, nautiloids, bivalves and echinoids have been recorded from this local Upper Greensand.
Upper Greensand–Glauconitic Marl contact. Burrows penetrate the top of the sandstone beneath the glauconitic basal Chalk. Thalassinoides is recorded at the contact; small phosphatic nodules occur in the overlying marl.
CHALK GROUP
The Chalk is marine limestone, largely built from microscopic calcareous plankton. The modern subdivision used below separates the Grey Chalk from the overlying White Chalk; these are lithostratigraphic units, not simple colour labels.
GREY CHALK SUBGROUP
The West Melbury Marly Chalk and Zig Zag Chalk belong to the Grey Chalk Subgroup. The Plenus Marls are excluded from this subgroup in the current BGS framework.
West Melbury Marly Chalk Formation
Cenomanian marl–chalk alternations overlie the basal glauconitic unit. At Falling Sands the succession is condensed, locally faulted and variably hidden by beach sand. Phosphatic pebble beds mark erosion and reworking, so it is less complete than the thicker inland Lewes sections.
Glauconitic Marl Member
Glauconitic basal Chalk above a burrowed sandstone surface contains phosphatic fossil moulds. The published Beachy Head fauna belongs to the Neostlingoceras carcitanense Subzone. This is a fossiliferous condensed unit rather than a thick clean white chalk bed.
Basal shelly chalk. The chalk immediately above the glauconitic interval contains abundant Inoceramus crippsi and Schloenbachia varians in the Beachy Head log.
The Rib and The Bank. The local log distinguishes the resistant Rib below the Bank; the latter carries abundant Inoceramus virgatus. These labels correlate sections but their height and spacing at Southerham must not be substituted for Beachy Head measurements.
Reworked phosphatic pebble beds. Two higher concentrations of phosphatised fossil pebbles are shown, the lower also glauconitised. The lower Chalk includes the well-known saxbii phosphates, with derived ammonites from the Mantelliceras saxbii Subzone; reworking prevents treating every fossil as the age of the enclosing bed.
Zig Zag Chalk Formation
The younger Cenomanian succession becomes more chalk-rich and thickly bedded. Its useful markers include brachiopod-rich horizons, named marls, trace-fossil beds, Jukes-Browne Bed 7 and the overlying Falling Sands interval. The modern formation ends below the Plenus Marls.
Orbirhynchia-rich horizons. Two closely spaced fossil-rich levels in the lower part of the Beachy Head reference log contain abundant Orbirhynchia mantelliana. These horizons lie below the conspicuous Asham marl interval.
Lower sponge and Concinnithyris chalk. Below Asham Marl 1, the log records chalk with sponges, abundant Concinnithyris and lenticular structures historically called scratch marks.
Asham Marl 1. A strongly developed marl is the principal lower marker in this part of the local sequence. It separates the lower sponge-bearing chalk from the higher beds leading towards Asham Marl 2.
Asham Marl 2. A second strongly developed marl lies above another Concinnithyris-rich interval, below the main Asham trace-fossil beds.
Asham Zoophycos Beds. These beds contain abundant Zoophycos feeding traces and Bathichnus paramoudrae. The former include a narrow vertical component with spreading horizontal feeding structures; the latter is represented by a narrow central burrow and a discoloured surrounding halo.
Triple Marls and the higher marl groove. Three close marl seams form a recognisable marker below Jukes-Browne Bed 7. A further conspicuous marl-associated groove lies above the triplet and below the main massive chalk unit.
Jukes-Browne Bed 7. A thickly bedded, relatively coarse chalk contains repeated lenticular structures filled with laminated calcarenite. Falling Sands is a classic exposure of these features. Its upper surface carries abundant Acanthoceras jukesbrownei and inoceramid bivalves in the local log.
Falling Sands beds. Rhythmically bedded chalk and wispy marls overlie Jukes-Browne Bed 7. This interval was named the Falling Sands Beds or Member in older work and correlates with the more uniformly white upper Cenomanian chalk of other sections; it is retained here as a historical subdivision within Zig Zag Chalk.
Eastbourne Sponge Bed. Within the upper Zig Zag Chalk, the Beachy Head log records a sponge-rich horizon containing ammonites of the Calycoceras guerangeri Zone. The geographic name does not restrict its occurrence to the separate Holywell section.
Upper Zig Zag erosion and marl markers. Above the sponge bed, a marked erosion surface is followed by a 0.25 m dark-grey marl and a higher 0.10 m marl. The upper chalk contains wispy and horsetail-like marl structures crossing the chalk fabric, with common Bathichnus paramoudrae and Zoophycos.
Sub-Plenus erosion surface. The top of the Zig Zag Chalk is a burrowed erosion surface. Pale rings around Bathichnus paramoudrae and dark spiral traces of Zoophycos are visible on it. This is the base of both the succeeding Holywell Nodular Chalk Formation and the White Chalk Subgroup.
WHITE CHALK SUBGROUP
The base lies below the Plenus Marls. The Cenomanian–Turonian boundary is higher, within the Meads marl succession.
Holywell Nodular Chalk Formation
Marly chalk, nodular chalk and shell-rich chalk span the latest Cenomanian and early Turonian. The Plenus Marls are especially expanded at Gun Gardens and form a conspicuous recess in the cliff.
Plenus Marls Member
Eight numbered beds divide the alternating marls and chalk. The GCR gives approximately 8 m at Beachy Head and a maximum of 11 m at Gun Gardens; these are locality-specific measurements, not a constant thickness along the coast.
Bed 1. The lowest Plenus bed overlies the burrowed sub-Plenus surface. The Beachy Head photograph records pyrite-filled burrows, while the log shows internal paler and darker layering.
Bed 2 and the Bed 2/3 interval. The next marly bed contains pyrite-filled burrows and an oyster band. The local log also singles out an intermediate Bed 2/3 interval below the distinctly paler Bed 3; this local label is retained without inventing a ninth standard bed.
Bed 3. A pale calcareous bed forms a useful contrast with the darker beds below and above. Its upper surface lies immediately beneath the main belemnite-bearing marl interval.
Bed 4, subdivisions 4a and 4b. The dark marl of Bed 4 contains belemnites. The local log distinguishes lower and upper parts, 4a and 4b. The characteristic species is Praeactinocamax plenus, historically placed in Actinocamax or Belemnitella; it does not occur uniformly throughout the entire member.
Bed 5. A relatively calcareous pale layer above Bed 4 separates it from the next thin marl. The published local figure resolves this bed but does not supply a separate numeric thickness.
Bed 6. A thin marly interval separates the paler chalks of Beds 5 and 7. It is retained as a distinct numbered marker rather than combined with the thicker lower marls.
Bed 7. Another calcareous layer lies above Bed 6 and below the uppermost marl. It belongs to the upper part of the eight-bed succession, below the Junction Limestone.
Bed 8 and the Junction Limestone. The highest numbered marl is followed by the pale Junction Limestone at the transition towards the overlying nodular chalk. Older logs distinguish these closely spaced units; their thicknesses should not be inferred from the whole member’s measured thickness.
Foyle Marl. The Foyle Marl marks the upper marl boundary below the Melbourn Rock in the BGS definition. Its local position is shown above the Junction Limestone in the Beachy Head log.
Melbourn Rock Member
Nodular and marly chalk succeeds the Plenus Marls. The local Sussex unit is not as uniformly hard as the Cambridgeshire type rock, and historical schemes use different names and limits for this interval.
Old Town Marl and Pilot Inn Marl. Above the Foyle Marl, the Beachy Head log identifies the Old Town Marl and then the Pilot Inn Marl, both within the lower post-Plenus chalk. They provide finer subdivision below Meads Marl 1.
Holywell Nodular Chalk Formation
Above the Melbourn Rock Member, whose top is marked by Meads Marl 1, the succession continues within the Holywell Nodular Chalk Formation.
Meads Marls 1–6. Six numbered marl seams follow in ascending order. Marl 1 marks the local top of the Melbourn Rock; Marls 2–4 precede the lowest Turonian faunal interval between Marls 4 and 5, and Marl 6 is the highest member of this close-spaced set. Holywell Marl 1 occurs above the Meads suite.
Boundary fossils and environmental change. At Gun Gardens, Inoceramus pictus is common in the Plenus Marls. Studies combine this expanded exposure with the upper boundary interval at Holywell to trace the carbon-isotope disturbance known as Oceanic Anoxic Event 2. This global event name does not imply that the local sea floor remained continuously without oxygen; fossil assemblages record changing conditions.
Higher Holywell beds and Gun Gardens marls. Above the Meads suite lie further Holywell marls and the Gun Gardens marl markers, within a succession passing into abundant inoceramid shell-detrital chalk. The Gun Gardens Main Marl marks the formation top in the standard Sussex section. The old Upper Holywell Beds lie above that boundary and are now included in New Pit Chalk.
New Pit Chalk Formation
Smooth to blocky white chalk with distinct marl seams overlies the Gun Gardens Main Marl. The east-side Beachy Head cliffs are a type section. Flint is much less persistent than in the overlying Lewes Nodular Chalk.
Gun Gardens Main Marl. The base of this marl is the formal lower boundary of New Pit Chalk. Some papers call its equivalent the Lulworth Marl. The boundary is at the marl’s base, rather than its top or the traditional base of Upper Chalk.
Malling Street Marls. The paired lower New Pit markers are recognised in the Sussex reference succession above the former Upper Holywell Beds. They subdivide relatively smooth chalk above the Gun Gardens interval.
Iford Marls. This higher pair belongs to the standard New Pit succession. Its visibility is less consistent than that of the stronger New Pit marls, so a covered or inconspicuous seam should not be represented as a missing formation.
New Pit Marls 1 and 2. Two conspicuous marl markers occur in the upper part of the succession, with a characteristic paired signature in regional borehole logs. They lie below the Glynde interval.
Glynde marl interval. Griotte or interlaced marl seams occur below the Glynde marker near the lighthouse. The change into persistently nodular chalk defines the New Pit–Lewes transition; published definitions vary between the basal Glynde marl and the incoming nodularity higher within the marker interval.
Lewes Nodular Chalk Formation
Nodular, locally iron-stained chalk with marl seams and persistent flint bands makes up part of the higher cliff. Its basal boundary is recorded near the lighthouse. The younger Light Point hardgrounds and Beachy Head sponge beds exposed farther west are outside this guide’s Cow Gap-to-lighthouse traverse.
Seaford Chalk Formation
Seaford Chalk occurs high in the cliff near the lighthouse above the Lewes Nodular Chalk. It is not the principal foreshore formation here. A detailed log of Seaford Chalk at Birling Gap or Seven Sisters therefore cannot be used as the lighthouse beach succession.
Quaternary deposits and modern rockfall debris. Cow Gap preserves younger coombe rock, chalk muds, fossil soils and hillwash above the Chalk, affected by landslipping. Modern falls farther west create large debris aprons containing blocks from several formations; loose fossils can have been brought down from high in the cliff.
References
BGS, A stratigraphical framework for the Lower Cretaceous of England
Sussex Geodiversity Partnership, Cow Gap, 2011 field survey
May (2003), Beachy Head–Seaford Head, Coastal Geomorphology of Great Britain
Mortimore, Wood and Gallois (2001), British Upper Cretaceous Stratigraphy; Southerham Grey Pit account, Beachy Head comparison, figures 3.111–3.113
Hopson (2005), A stratigraphical framework for the Upper Cretaceous Chalk of England and Scotland, BGS RR/05/01
Lake, Young, Wood and Mortimore (1987), Geology of the country around Lewes; Eastbourne comparison sections
BGS Lexicon, HCK
Mortimore, Wood and Gallois (2001), British Upper Cretaceous Stratigraphy, Southern Province chapter
Paul and colleagues (1999), The Cenomanian–Turonian boundary at Eastbourne (Sussex, UK): a proposed European reference section (abstract)
Amaglio and colleagues (2026; online identifier 2025), Sea-level and paleoenvironmental changes revealed by benthic foraminifera across OAE 2 at Eastbourne; Cretaceous Research 177, 106204
Sussex Geodiversity Partnership, Beachy Head area, 2011 field survey
Mortimore, Wood and Gallois (2001), Cuckmere to Seaford account; Birling Gap comparison and regional marker definitions
BGS Lexicon, SECK
Natural England, Seaford to Beachy Head SSSI citation, current notification 15 November 1999
SAFETY
The tide reaches the cliff base and can cut off the route well before high water. Use a falling-tide window, allow a wide margin and never round the headland on a rising tide. Do not assume a beach exit exists between the recognised access points.
Stay clear of cliff bases, overhangs and fall aprons. Large boulders, mud and weed are slippery; a helmet does not make the cliff base safe.
Phone reception may fail. Tell someone your route and return time, and turn back if access, weather or sea conditions are unsuitable.
EQUIPMENT
Take sturdy footwear with good grip, tide information, a hand lens, a camera, wrapping material and rigid specimen boxes. Keep the load manageable for the rocky shore.
Loose chalk fossils can be fragile. A soft brush and careful packing are more useful than levering specimens from the platform; do not hammer cliffs or in-situ features.
CLEANING AND TREATING
Allow wet specimens to dry slowly at room temperature, then begin with gentle dry brushing. Support thin shells and exposed echinoid tests rather than scrubbing them or trying to force away attached chalk.
Avoid acids, bleach and routine varnish. Hard chalk or flint preparation can damage the fossil as easily as the matrix; stop if the surface is flaking and seek specialist advice. Keep potentially important specimens unprepared.
IDENTIFY YOUR FINDS
Need help identifying a fossil? Share clear photos, where you found it and its size with the community.
FURTHER READING
Mortimore, Wood and Gallois (2001), Cuckmere to Seaford, British Upper Cretaceous Stratigraphy
Mortimore, Wood and Gallois (2001), Southerham Grey Pit and the Beachy Head comparison, British Upper Cretaceous Stratigraphy, figures 3.111–3.113
May (2003), Beachy Head–Seaford Head, Coastal Geomorphology of Great Britain
Mortimore, Wood and Gallois (2001), British Upper Cretaceous Stratigraphy, Southern Province chapter
Amaglio and colleagues (2026), Sea-level and paleoenvironmental changes revealed by benthic foraminifera across OAE 2 at Eastbourne, Cretaceous Research 177, 106204 Abstract page; full text may require access.
Sussex Geodiversity Partnership, Beachy Head area, 2011 field survey
Lake, Young, Wood and Mortimore (1987), Geology of the country around Lewes
Visit Eastbourne: Beachy Head, Warren Hill and Butts Brow downland car parks
ACCESS RIGHTS
Follow current signs and protected-site guidance. An historical route description is not proof of present access. Keep collecting low-impact and limited to genuinely loose material where permitted; do not damage bedrock or features, and seek permission for intrusive sampling.
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